What should we measure instead of “microplastic-free”? An honest look at synthetic fibre release

The problem: a reassuring but misleading word

“Microplastic-free” sounds reassuring. For a textile made from synthetic fibres such as polyester (PES) and polyamide (PA), however, the phrase can be misleading. Synthetic textiles can release fibres during use and especially in the wash; this does not depend on whether the material is recovered or newly made. Recycled polyester has potential environmental benefits, but it does not make the question of fibre release disappear by itself.

This article is written neither to play down nor to exaggerate synthetic fibre release, but to help purchasing and sustainability teams ask the right question.

The frame: fibre release can be measured

Fibre release from synthetic textiles in the wash is a subject discussed in the scientific literature; for example, a study published in Scientific Reports in 2019 discusses the scientific context of this risk. The subject is not an abstract yes-or-no question: fibre release can be measured, and it can vary with the product's construction, washing conditions and care habits.

So the right question is not “does this product release microplastics?” but rather:

• With which method and under which condition was fibre release measured?

• On which product and which sample was it measured?

• Which care recommendations are given to reduce release?

• What happens to the product when it is taken out of use?

Each of these questions concerns a different team: the quality team asks about method and sample, the sustainability team about the reduction plan, and housekeeping or the end user about care instructions. A one-word label meets none of these needs; measured information with a clear scope can answer all of them at once.

FRIGG's approach: measure, explain, reduce

FRIGG's position on synthetic material is clear: it does not present its products as “microplastic-free”. Instead it follows a three-step approach:

• Measure: the aim is to measure synthetic fibre release per product. Measurement results and a reduction plan are shared with the product when they are ready.

• Explain: users are given clear information on care, washing and reducing fibre release.

• Reduce: filtering and take-back options are being developed.

Reuse is part of this picture. FRIGG develops textiles for repeated use with Q0 ECO microfilament technology, but every cycle of reuse also means a wash. Reuse and fibre release should therefore be considered together, and the benefit of one should not hide the other.

The aim of this approach is not to hide the limits of a synthetic material but to make them manageable. FRIGG's communication rule is the same here: a claim is published only when it is backed by a result with a clear method, sample and scope. Where there is no result yet, saying so openly is also part of evidence discipline.

Care information is planned to appear in the care instructions supplied with the product and among the downloadable documents; the planned QR evidence card also includes modules for washing and care information. That way users, purchasing and quality teams reach the same information.

End of use: a concrete route, not a general promise

“Recyclable” calls for the same discipline. Multi-component constructions and finishes can limit local recycling. FRIGG's approach is to show a concrete route in markets where collection, sorting and a recycling partner exist; where there is no such route, no general recycling promise is made. Mechanical or chemical recycling is a scenario that depends on local infrastructure and a partner.

The product's end-of-use route is among the information the planned QR evidence card is meant to carry: reuse, collection, recycling and guidance by country. That way, when users part with a product, they can see an option suited to their market instead of a general slogan.

Evidence and limit

This article does not give a fibre release value, a reduction rate or a recycling result for any FRIGG product. Fibre release measurement and a consumer care guide are shared per product when they are ready for that product. A measurement made on one product is not generalised to another product or to different washing conditions. The same principle applies to all of FRIGG's environmental communication: instead of absolute phrases such as “saves the planet”, the measured input, performance and use cycle are discussed.

A practical tip for purchasing teams: when a supplier uses “microplastic-free” or a similar absolute phrase, ask the four questions above and check whether the answers are tied to a product code.

Next step

If fibre release, care or end of use is an important criterion in your product choice, say so in your request; the information available for the product concerned is shared at the sample and quotation stage. Go to the request form.

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Insights

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• Fibre release
• Reuse